The Characteristics and Cultural Interpretation of Mongolian Costumes

Historical Origins

The origins of Mongolian attire can be traced back to the distant prehistoric period. Rock paintings of the nomadic peoples of the northern region reveal that ancient humans on the Mongolian Plateau wore short animal skin skirts around their waists, with long feathers adorning their heads and some even with tail ornaments. The abundance of crude stone rings and bone ornaments suggests that, from very early on, the northern nomadic peoples possessed a sense of aesthetics and a pursuit of beauty. Mongolian clothing has its unique aesthetic characteristics. Mongolians have a particular fondness for bright and vibrant colors, which evoke a sense of cheerfulness and joy. At the same time, they also admire pure and bright colors such as white and sky blue. Due to the cold climate and nomadic lifestyle on the Mongolian Plateau, Mongolian clothing must be both warm and suitable for horseback riding. Therefore, long robes, vests, fur hats, and boots have become their preferred attire. Winter clothing is typically lined with sheep fur and often has a silk, satin, or cotton outer layer. Summer clothing is usually made of cotton, silk, satin, or crepe.

Types of Clothing

The vast territory of Inner Mongolia in China, with its diverse natural environments, economic conditions, and living habits, has given rise to a rich variety of clothing styles, each with its own unique characteristics. For example, there are dozens of clothing styles such as Keshiketeng, Tumote, Bargu, Buryat, Khorchin, Ujumuchin, Sunite, Chahar, Ordos, Urat, Torgut, and Hoshote. While these styles share a general resemblance, they also have their distinctive features. The basic form is a long robe with a slit on either side or in the middle, and horse-hoof-shaped sleeves. Married women often wear a long or short vest over their robes.

Long Robes

Taking women's robes as an example, the Mongols in the Khorchin and Kharachin regions, influenced by the Manchus, often wore wide, floor-length robes with slits on both sides. The collars and cuffs were usually decorated with colorful embroidery. Mongols on the Xilingol Grassland wore bulky, narrow-sleeved, unsplit Mongolian robes with borders. Buryat women wore a high-shouldered, belted dress-like robe. Ordos women's robes consisted of three pieces: an inner garment with sleeves reaching the wrist, an outer garment with sleeves reaching the elbow, and a collarless, wrap-around vest with a row of shiny buttons. The long robes worn by Mongols in Qinghai are similar to those of the Tibetans. Except for Qinghai, men's clothing is relatively similar across different regions. In spring and autumn, they wear long robes with linings, in summer they wear single-layer robes, and in winter they wear cotton-padded or fur-lined robes. In terms of color, men's clothing is often blue or brown, while women prefer red, pink, green, and sky blue.

Belts

Belts are an important part of Mongolian clothing, made of silk or cotton and measuring three to four meters long. Men's belts often have accessories such as knives, flints, and snuffboxes.

Mongolian Boots

Mongolian boots come in both leather and cloth varieties. Mongolian boots are finely crafted with exquisite patterns on the uppers and various parts. Depending on the season, there are leather boots, cloth boots, and felt boots. Based on the height of the boot shaft, there are high-shaft, mid-shaft, and low-shaft boots. Leather boots are made of cowhide, horsehide, or sheepskin and are durable, waterproof, and warm. They come in various styles, such as those with curled or half-curled toes, flat-bottomed, pointed, or rounded toes. Cloth boots are made of cloth or velvet and are mostly mid-shaft or low-shaft with embroidered patterns on the uppers. They are lightweight, soft, and comfortable. Felt boots are made of wool or camel hair and are warm and durable. They are commonly worn in the depths of winter. Leather boots often have patterns pressed or pasted onto the uppers using special techniques. These patterns include the Double Dragon Playing with a Pearl, Linked Jewels, Bats, Cloud Patterns, Swastikas, Grass Patterns, Man Symbols, Butterflies, and Flowers. The uppers and shafts of cloth boots are often embroidered or appliquéd with exquisite floral patterns.

Headdress

Wearing jewelry and hats is a Mongolian custom, and hats in different regions have their own local characteristics. The Mongols in Inner Mongolia and Qinghai wear hats with high crowns and flat brims, lined with white felt and with a leather outer layer. Sometimes, the felt is dyed purple-green for decoration. The top of the hat is adorned with a tassel, and the hatband is made of silk. Both men and women can wear this type of hat. The Bargu and Buryat Mongols in Hulunbuir wear shoulder-length hats, while the women wear turned-up, pointed hats. Mongolian jewelry is typically decorated with precious materials such as agate, jade, coral, pearls, and silver, giving it a rich and luxurious appearance.