The Distinctive Characteristics and Cultural Evolution of Tibetan Traditional Clothing

Clothing Characteristics

Tibetan clothing is one of the primary features distinguishing Tibetans from other ethnic groups. Made mostly from fur and pulu (traditional wool fabric), Tibetan clothing is very warm, making it ideal for the cold Tibetan regions. Tibetan robes are wide at the waist, long in length, and come with a belt that can carry various items. When the belt is loosened, it can even serve as a blanket for warmth—a practical feature for a nomadic people who live on the grasslands. Another characteristic of Tibetan attire is the emphasis on vibrant and bright colors. In pastoral areas, women’s Tibetan robes are often made from white wool as a base, paired with large sections of red, blue, green, and black fabric. They adorn their waists with red coral, turquoise, yellow amber, shells, and silver ornaments, creating a rich palette. In agricultural areas, residents typically wear black pulu, complemented by red shirts, red bangdian (aprons), various forms of pulu shoulder bags, and sometimes a colorful danglei, a seven-colored ornament. Since most locals practice Tibetan Buddhism, Tibetan robes are also influenced by religion. Women often wear a gawu (amulet box) on their chest, while men attach it to their waist. The gawu usually contains a small Buddha statue or scriptures. Tibetans enjoy wearing hats, prefer cowhide boots, and often wear a variety of headwear and jewelry, with leather and pulu as the main materials.

Historical Evolution

Yarlung Dynasty Clothing

In the 7th century, Songtsen Gampo, the leader of the Yarlung tribal alliance, unified various surrounding tribes, establishing Tibet’s first unified regime, the Yarlung Dynasty, known as the Tubo Kingdom. The Yarlung kings endeavored to maintain good relations with the Tang Dynasty, introducing large amounts of Central Plains production techniques and culture. In 641 AD, Songtsen Gampo married Princess Wencheng from the Tang Dynasty, which led to significant Chinese cultural influence on Tibet. Thus, the Yarlung Dynasty became a period of great transformation in Tibetan clothing, with people gradually shifting from summer felt garments and winter fur clothing to silk attire. Due to the increasing demand for silk, the Tang-Tubo Ancient Road became a key route for silk transport.

Sakya Period Clothing

During the Sakya period, Tibetan territories came under the jurisdiction of the Yuan Dynasty’s Xuanzheng Yuan. Tibetan clothing was heavily influenced by the Mongol Empire. During this time, Sakya Dynasty officials began to wear Mongolian-style clothing, such as Kulun (modern-day Ulaanbaatar) attire, Chajucha Doi short garments, floral satin coats, fox-fur hats, and round-toed boots.

Phagmodrupa Dynasty Clothing

In the 14th century, Changchub Gyaltsen, a leader of the Phagmodrupa clan, overthrew the Sakya Dynasty in 1354, establishing the Phagmodrupa Dynasty and reviving Tubo-era clothing styles. According to The General History of Tibet, during the reign of the fifth ruler of the Phagmodrupa Dynasty, Drakpa Gyaltsen, it was decreed that on Tibetan New Year and major festivals, all officials and noble families of the Sakya tradition must wear Tubo-era clothing.

Tibetan Clothing in the Qing Dynasty

During the Qing Dynasty, the central Qing government awarded feathered hats with floral decorations to Tibetan nobles based on their contributions. It is said that the first to receive this honor was the noble Dorje Langje Tseden in the early 18th century. Over time, more people wore these feathered hats, making them an important part of Tibetan attire. The Qing government strictly regulated the dress codes for Tibetan monks, nobles, and officials, holding a ceremonial seasonal change of attire on the 8th day of the 3rd lunar month for summer clothes and on the 25th of the 10th lunar month for winter clothes.

Regional Differences

Lhasa Region

Clothing in the Lhasa region is characterized by simplicity and elegance. Men typically wear sleeveless robes with large collars, made primarily from pulu or wool, over a white or colorful high-collared shirt, with a silk or wool belt around the waist. The belt often holds decorative items like small Tibetan knives. Women usually wear sleeveless robes in the summer over vibrant long-sleeved shirts, with married women adding a colorful striped bangdian (apron) at the waist. In winter, they wear long-sleeved outer robes.

Shigatse Region

In the agricultural areas of Shigatse, men’s Tibetan robes are often black or white pulu, with floral pulu trimmings on the collar, cuffs, lapel, and hem. Women typically wear short-sleeved robes in summer and fall, switching to long-sleeved Tibetan robes with a bangdian for winter. In the colder, high-altitude pastoral areas, residents wear long-sleeved fur Tibetan robes year-round. These fur robes also feature decorative trims on the cuffs, lapel, and hem. In Yadong County, a forested, humid, and rainy area, women wear red wool shawls fastened with silver pins.

Shannan Region

Located in the middle and lower reaches of the Yarlung Zangbo River, the Shannan region is known as the birthplace of Tibetan culture. Its geographic location gives Shannan’s clothing a blend of characteristics from both central and southern Tibet. Additionally, as the former homeland of the Phagmodrupa Dynasty, the Tibetan robes in Shannan have more distinctive local features than in other regions.

Ngari Region

Ngari, located in a high-altitude area, is primarily a pastoral region. Due to its remote location and limited outside contact, Ngari’s clothing retains ancient Tubo-era features. Its geographical proximity to Nepal and India also contributes to its unique stylistic characteristics.

Nagqu Region

Nagqu is characterized by its high altitude, cold temperatures, and dry climate. Consequently, pastoral residents often use pulu, silk, and furs for their clothing. Men’s long robes are typically made from silk brocade with wide fur trims, worn over high-collared, long-sleeved shirts with gold accents and brocade sleeveless vests. Women’s robes are generally crafted from plain pulu or vibrant brocade with wide fur borders. Besides traditional broad-striped and fine-striped bangdian, embroidered bangdian created by hand are also popular.